Amanda Hesser Shares Her Thoughts on the Martha Stewart Documentary

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Welcome to the latest edition of Food52 Founder Amanda Hesser’s weekly newsletter, Hey there, it’s Amanda, packed with food, travel, and shopping tips, Food52 doings, and other matters that catch her eye. Get inspired—sign up here for her emails.


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I tend to have two cooking modes: I either get caught up in nostalgia, and want to cook recipes I haven’t made in ages, or I thirst for the new. Last week, I had Danielle Oron’s Salted Tahini Chocolate Chip Cookies from 2016, which isn’t ages ago, technically, but which somehow feels like a past life. I plan to keep them in my current life. The tahini, salt, and chocolate work like magic together. The tahini forms the base of the cookie, and there’s just enough flour to hold the dough together, so it’s a nutty, chewy cookie, without the heft of one made with peanut butter. Or as Aly S., a Food52er commented, “Truly genius heaven. Tasted like the creamiest halva with chocolate in a cookie form. To die for!”

We’ll get to Martha in a sec, but first, we’ve got a lot going on at Food52!

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Hands down, this is my favorite annual feature. We ask 52 ceramicists to design a mug–just for us! Check them out here, and hurry, they run out quickly. Trust me, I’ve learned this lesson the hard way!

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Our newest show, “What’s For Fika,” launched with Nea’s Swedish family-secret (not anymore!) recipe for traditional cardamom buns.

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Photo by Food52

We dug up this round-up of inventive and delicious Thanksgiving recipes for ya. I’m definitely making the cranberry salsa macha again.

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It took us years, but we finally found a source for a porcelain holiday village with great design.

Photo by Netflix

If you haven’t seen the Martha Stewart documentary on Netflix yet and you have even the faintest interest in her, it’s a great use of two hours of your life. In two hours Martha herself could plant dove white peonies where someone carelessly let red (a no-no color in Martha world) flowers grow in her garden, chide an employee for using the wrong knife to slice an orange, and prep a party for 20 guests.

Watching the film was like reading her magazine, Martha Stewart Living, back in the day. It was always a delicious love/hate read. My mom, my sisters, and I would scour every page, complain loudly about how out of touch she was, then quietly mimic her centerpieces and her cookie decorating and go buy her towels at Kmart.

“I’m celebrating something that’s been put down for so long,” she said in the documentary. “I think I’m like the modern feminist.”

Unlike other home magazines and books that talked down to their audiences by promoting content that was “easy,” Martha raised the bar and gave people something to aspire to. “They may never make that cake, but they can dream about it,” she said.

This compulsive need for constant improvement extended to her time in prison, where she befriended an inmate who grew cucumbers in the prison garden. Naturally, she used them to make cucumber sandwiches for the women on her cellblock.

Martha’s hallmark isn’t perfection so much as her dogged pursuit of it. After the filmmaker, R.J. Cutler, released the documentary, she called up the New York Times, and explained the talking points that he’d obtusely, she thought, left out. “My magazine, my Martha Stewart magazine, which you might say is traditional, was the most modern home magazine ever created,” she told the Times. “We had avant-garde photography. Nobody ever showed puff pastry the way I showed it. Or the glossaries of the apples and the chrysanthemums. And we prided ourselves so much on all of that modernism. And he didn’t get any of that.”

Cutler captured her impressive resilience, her sharp tongue—of her trial, “Those prosecutors should’ve been put in a Cuisinart and turned on high,”—but I agree that he largely missed what her magazine added to the culture. Imagine The Last Dance without Michael Jordan’s on-court moves.

As her friend Lloyd Allen, said, “She was the first woman that saw the marketability of her personal life. Martha was the first influencer.” If Merrill and I hadn’t grown up on Martha, would Food52 exist? Maybe not.

Don’t worry, though, I won’t ever call you stupid for using the wrong tool in the kitchen. I do it all the time!

Have a great week!

Amanda



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